Tuesday, 6 September 2011

Bundeena Surf Therapy

Just a short blog about the perfect morning paddle I had today. I went down to Cronulla to do a demo paddle & spotted the Bundeena Bar with some perfect cresting green waves, so paddled over for a play in the short hour or so I had available.
I chased the Bundeena ferry across Gunamatta Bay, remembering what Max Walker had taught me about how to hook onto the bow wake & stay there with minimal effort, in the early days of training for the North Reef trip.
Out at the bar the surf was fantastic, over head high, slow enough to paddle onto without having to hang about in the steep zone & risk a thrashing in the break, and giving me ride after ride of 100-200m with little effort other than the first burst to get my ski running. Once away I'd angle left & right seeking out the steeper sections & troughs which unlock a faster ride, all the while soaking up the freedom of surfing along at this 'once in a blue moon' spot.
It dawned on me that I had no goal for this paddle, no heart rate monitor, GPS, nothing to measure my progress as I have been assiduously doing since March. I've gotta say, it was bliss, riding the waves, enjoying the speed of the ski across a glassy waterline & punching back out for ride after long ride.
I had the camera going but alas my SD card still carried the welter of footage from the expedition & only gave me a minute or two at the beginning before expiring. No matter, the video has been replaying in my mind all day.
I didn't think in such a busy life I'd get the post-expedition blues, but I've got to honest & admit that the last few weeks of paddling haven' been very inspiring.
I reckon I cured all that this morning.

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